The Seiko Presage series is well-known among watch enthusiasts for their well-executed cases, different types of finishes, colors, materials, and most pertinently; their unique and beautiful dials. Some, like the SSA343 are personal favorites and come in at price points much more affordable than one would expect. Seiko has continued to develop the Presage line in 2020, releasing the ‘Sharp Edged’ series, a modern take using sharper, geometric shapes on the dial and case, and taking the pieces a bit more upmarket. Now, Seiko continues to expand their Sharp Edged lineup with 5 new models: SPB303, SPB305, SPB307, SPB309 & SPB311.
Each of the Sharp Edged series uses the same Asanoha, or hemp leaf, dial design, a nod to the long-standing history of Japanese fabrics. As the Presage and Sharp Edged series have continued to grow, so have their complications; as we now see GMTs, power reserves, and day/date subdials. Further, a couple of the 2022 Sharp Edged models have now received a slightly updated case design.
SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGED GMT SPB303 LIMITED EDITION
The new Seiko Presage Sharp Edged SPB303 is a GMT with a fixed 24h bezel with ceramic insert, and a GMT hand that can be set individually of the rest of the handset, in hour increments, to denote a second timezone.
All of the design elements on this watch are precisely angular, from the hour indices to the handset, and even the geometric case itself. The level of finish of the varied brushed and polished surfaces throughout the case and stainless steel bracelet are not quite Grand Seiko level of refined, but awfully close, and both the bracelet and case are coated with Seiko’s super-hard coating to help prevent scratches.
The dial sports a power-reserve indicator, displaying the 6R64 GMT movement’s 45-hour maximum power reserve. The SPB303 is limited to 900 pieces and will retail for $1,550.
Seiko Presage SPB303 Specifications
- Dimensions: Diameter: 42.2mm, Thickness: 13.7mm
- Case: Stainless steel case with super-hard coating, brushed and polished
- Bezel: Fixed 24-hour bezel with dark blue insert
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance:100m water-resistant
- Dial: Textured Asanoha hemp-leaf patterned dial in dark blue
- Lume: LumiBrite on hands and markers
- Movement: Seiko 6R64, in-house – automatic winding – 28,800vph – 29 jewels – 45h power reserve –
- Complications: central hours, minutes, seconds and GMT, power reserve, pointer date
- Bracelet: stainless steel bracelet, with secondary horse-leather strap –
- Limited to 900 pieces
- MSRP: $1,550
SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGED POWER RESERVE SPB305 & SPB307
Next up are the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Power Reserve SPB305 & SPB307, two models which have had their cases updated slightly. The new case design still retains the geometric angularity that previous Sharp Edged models have, there is now a slight polished bevel between the brushed top and sides of the case, offering yet another angle of complexity, and the ability for the watch to catch the light. Again, the finish is not Grand Seiko level, but still well-refined.
The SPB305 & SPB307 feature the same hemp leaf dial texture in an icy white-blue, or black. Both feature a trio of indicators and sub-dials: a power reserve, denoting the 45-hour power reserve of their Seiko 6R21 movement, as well as day and date sub-dials.
The SPB305 and SPB307 are my favorites of the bunch, as their tastefully executed complications, paired with the gorgeous dials and refined level of finish result in a watch that doesn’t lack visual interest from any angle, though this may be a bit too much for some. The SPB305 and SPB307 retail for $1,100.
Seiko SPB305 & SPB307 Specifiations
- Dimensions: Diameter: 40.2mm, Thickness: 12.2mm
- Case: Stainless steel case and bracelet with super-hard coating
- Case Back: See-through display casebacl
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance:100m water-resistant, 10 bar
- Lume: LumiBrite on hands and markers
- Movement: Seiko 6R64, in-house – automatic winding – 28,800vph – 29 jewels – 45h power reserve –
- Complications: Power reserve indicator, day subdial, date subdial
- Bracelet: stainless steel bracelet, with three-fold clasp with push button release
- Retail Price: $1,100
SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGED OPEN HEART SPB309 & SPB311
Last, but not least, we have the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged open Heart SPB309 & SPB311. This duo features a raised stepped inner dial that is framed by the hour indices and a lowered dial ring along the outside. I appreciate how the precisely faceted applied indices just barely meet the center dial ring. At 9:00, we have what may be a controversial open-heart which reveals a portion of the brand new underneath.
The new Seiko calibre 6R38 movement has a slower beat rate (21,600 bph) than the rest of these Sharp Edged models, amplifying its power-reserve to a whopping 70 hours. Ultimately, this is a tradeoff, as the other models have higher beat rates, but shorter, 45h power-reserves instead.
The SPB309 features an icy white dial and a stainless steel bracelet, while the SPB311 features a dark blue dial, with unique rose gold indices and handset, paired on a dark brown leather strap.
Seiko SPB309 & SPB311 Specifications
- Dimensions: Diameter: 40.2mm, Thickness: 11.8mm
- Case: Stainless steel case and bracelet with super-hard coating (SPB309), Stainless steel case with super-hard coating and calf strap (SPB311)
- Case back: See-through display casebacl
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance:100m water-resistant, 10 bar
- Lume: LumiBrite on hands and markers
- Movement: Seiko 6R64, in-house – automatic winding – 28,800vph – 29 jewels – 45h power reserve –
- Complications: Power reserve indicator, day subdial, date subdial
- Bracelet: Three-fold clasp with push button release (SPB309), dark brown leather strap (SPB311)
The new Sharp Edged series will be available in June 2022. Check out Seiko Watches for more information.
